AS Rock LGA1155 DDR3 SATA3 USB3.0 Quad CrossFireX and Quad SLI A GbE ATX Motherboard Z77 EXTREME4 Compare Prices

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AS Rock LGA1155 DDR3 SATA3 USB3.0 Quad CrossFireX and Quad SLI A GbE ATX Motherboard Z77 EXTREME4 Compare Prices



Best Review: AS Rock LGA1155 DDR3 SATA3 USB3.0 Quad CrossFireX and Quad SLI A GbE ATX Motherboard Z77 EXTREME4 - I put this board in my computer about 6 months ago. My computer is a 2u that sits as a thick client in a server rack. There are several reasons I chose this board, other than price.1) Solid capacitors (caps are the leading cause of boards bricking over time. "cross-tops" or non-solid capacitors can split or even leak 'goo' when they heat up. It isn't that they aren't rated for their designated uF, they just aren't built for longevity. Solid caps are.)2) 8+4 phased VRM with pulse modulation (the cleaner the current is to the CPU, the more efficient it is. Pulse modulation uses switching to deliver current much like high end PSUs. With the additional {8+4} transistors/chokes/phases the load is spread out more, letting it run cooler and making it safe (virtually unheard of) from overloading the CPU. These are features that make this board inherently reliable.)3) The second SATAIII controller {ASMedia ASM1061}supports hot swap at full 6.0 speed.The Intel controller only supports 2 of the four SATAIII connectors {SATA3_0 and SATA3_1 for RAID}. It's the same with all cougar and panther point chipsets (p67, h67, z68, z77, x79 etc. anything with a numeric designator of 65 and up)Speaking of SATAIII:TRIM is NOT supported in RAID 0 in anything but a 75, 77 or 79 series chipset at present (Also you have to have the Intel Rapid Storage Tech version 11.6 or newer which is upgradable on Intel's download site. Without it, you can run 'fsutil behavior query', and it will still say zero, but enabled, and 'on' are two different things in this case). If you want to RAID 0 a pair of SSDs, and have that performance last, you have to get the TRIM working. This board meets the requirements to do that.4) a back up ghost BIOS5) Layout (in a 2u chassis you only have so much vertical room, and cooling is critical as you can't use tall CPU coolers, multiple 120mm fans etc. Also the PCIe has to be done via a riser card. With this board's layout I was able to fit everything into the case, to include the cooling for an i-series running at 4.2, a second NIC for the console interface, and pretty beefy graphics card supplementing the on-chip Intel HD4000 for the eyefinity.)What I was able to get out of this board: 4.5Gigs on the CPU, tuned it down to 4.2, sometimes it hits 4.3 (but that's the board doing its own thing), 2000 MHz out of the RAM (from 16 gigs of 2133 RAM), and a Gig read and write off of the primary SSD RAID 0 array. To say that this board is as fast as the best components is an understatement. While I can't comment about gaming (I didn't build it for that) I can say that it is lightning fast, crunches big data without breaking a sweat, and sits on the edge as well or better than any computer I have plugged into the network (I used this for my computer...the one I use everyday, and have found myself dipping into the servers less and less. It is actually changing the way I work).I've built a couple AsRock units for myself, and used one as the board in a system I designed that we offer to the public. I don't want to say anything negative about Asus, or Gigabyte but It seems like I am always having to tweak something down the road with these boards (an option you don't really have if you are building the unit to ship to customers). Biostar and Foxxconn are just awful for a list of reasons as long as my arm, MSI should stick to video cards ("military grade"?), never used an EVGA so I can't comment there. Zotac got their big niche with the ITX boards, but don't put out anything in the ATX sizes that really do anything noteworthy. Intel makes a very sound, reliable board, but they always seem to be lacking a feature or two that I can get cheaper in a different board.In short, if I had to recommend a board for gaming, I'd probably say Asus...I've built a ton of those, and have had great results. But in a gaming rig you want to tweak stuff every once in a while.....it's part of the allure. I'm sure this ASRock board would game very well. The thing is that all of that tech they develop for gamers ends up in workstations eventually (kinda like stuff NASA came up with 10 years ago is available at the mall today)....and this is one of those crossover boards (although I doubt that's what they intended). You have all of the speed you could want but with the reliability, and simplicity (you don't have to tweak it every once in a while) you need in a daily driver.

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Best Review: 2Mm 3M Adhesive Sticker Tape LCD Screen/ Digitizer Sticker For HTC 4G Evo Supersonic, Incredible, HD2 T8585, Desire, Hero, Legend, Diamond 2 - When my digitizer broke on my HTC EVO 3D, my cell phone company wanted me to pay $100 to get it fixed. Instead, I did it myself. While there are dozens of phone repair tutorials out on the web that tell you what tools you need (pry tool, torx screwdrivers, philips screwdrivers), most of them don't tell you that you need some kind of adhesive. Well I'm confirming that if you have a smartphone and you don't want the LCD screen and digitizer to slip/fall out, you need adhesive. With that said, I bought this one.My complaints of other reviews are that the ratings for this product is all over the place. People complain about the location, ship speed, quality but they never mention who they bought it from. If you're reading my review, take notice that MULTIPLE 3rd parties sell this exact same item. So who you pick as your seller determines all that.With that said, the vendor I chose was "BESTLED", also listed as "Besthongkong Technology Company Limited". The reason I chose them is that despite their location is Hong Kong, *SOME ITEMS* they sell are via Amazon fulfillment, which makes them:1) Eligible for Amazon Prime (I got mine in 2 days)2) Shipments are based out of the United StatesThe price I got it for was $4.29 when I ordered it.NOTE: At the time, they had it as Amazon Fulfilment - Amazon Prime. As of 9/21/2012, this item from "BESTLED" is not valid for Amazon Prime anymore. So be aware that this might come from overseas.Obviously this is cut from a main roll of the same stuff. For those of you that didn't realize, this is how they cut tape down to a specific size. Whether it's Scotch tape, duct tape, electrical tape, sticker tape; it all comes from a bigger roll. My item was *expertly cut*. There were no jaggy edges or accidents. The entire roll was uniform in size.As for quality, this is a legit 3M product. The adhesive is very sticky and decently strong. It's not strong like super glue but it is strong enough to keep your screen/digitizer from slipping and is strong enough to adhere it to the assembly.As for the quantity, I'm not sure how one would ever use this much unless they were in the profession of phone repairs. I got it simply because this is one item required for phone repair and I only used about a 8 inches of it (I had to repair two phones). Estimating the remaining amount, I still have plenty to for at least 30 phones or more.This product is highly recommended.

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Best Review: uNu Power DX External Protective Battery Case for iPhone 4S & 4 (Glossy White, Fit All Models iPhone 4 & 4S) - I don't normally write too many reviews but I had to write something about the Unu DX-1700. I've spent a great deal of time doing cross comparisons of different battery cases on the market before I settled on the Unu. There is relatively very little information on the web about the unit so I figured I'd help out buyers like me who like to research the item before they commit to buying. So here goes:The Good:1. The Unu is attractively priced. Many other battery cases range anywhere from $60 - $80 which is way out of my price range for this type of product.2. The Unu looks good. I've got a white iPhone 4 (Verizon) and a majority of the battery cases out there are black. Also, the Unu has a nice, glossy finish which compliments the iPhone.3. It works. I can go an entire day (13 hours) without recharging my phone, and that includes web surfing, sending/reading emails, and of course playing games.The Bad:1. The Unu does add some considerable bulk to your slim iPhone. Both in thickness and in height.2. The Unu adds extra weight (mainly from the battery) so throwing it in your pockets may be uncomfortable.Bottomline:It's a quality battery case that works well, compatible and reliable, and is relatively inexpensive. There are negatives, but they're all superficial. If you're a person who is always on the go and you don't always have time to charge your phone then this case is for you. I've had my Unu for nearly 4 months, and it has saved me on many occasions, particularly last week when heavy winds knocked down all the electrical lines and our neighborhood had no electricity for 3 days. Outstanding product - gets 8 out of 10 stars from me.

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Best Review: Samsung UN50ES6500 50-Inch 1080p 120Hz 3D Slim LED HDTV (Black) - This review is for the 60" model.First Impressions-----------------The box is *huge*. The TV is *thin*. Not even an inch at the edge, and maybe just over in the center. The menus are pretty straightforward. (I don't care too much about the 3D or Smart features of this TV at the moment, and don't have much frame of reference for how to judge modern 3D, so I can't really review these aspects.) The screen doesn't seem too glossy, but it apparently works very well as a mirror because I can see a negative image of my kitchen when it's off.Struggle--------One extremely annoying "feature" of these TVs that I've found out after purchase is the "CE Dimming" feature. This is not the "ECO Dimming" or anything you can control; It's hard-coded into the certain picture modes (Standard and Native, at least). This feature is something that will reduce the backlighting when there is mostly black on the screen. (For example, if there is 100% brightness white text on a pure black screen, it would actually display at a fraction of that intensity due to the backlight dimming). I've read that this is to reduce the appearance of light bleeding in from the edges, since it's edge-lit. This "feature" annoys me significantly, particularly because I am not allowed to control it. After searching around I found out this is called "CE Dimming" and you can hack it by going into the service menu (you can find the instructions online yourself), however messing with it apparently voids the warranty. The only picture mode I found that doesn't use this is "Movie" mode. But, movie mode looks terrible with its default settings.After 3 days of struggle, experimentation, and research, I've found settings that actually give me a picture I can call "good" or better. I'm not an expert, but I'm technical and pretty picky. So, because I have found no calibration settings for this series of TVs yet, I'm going to provide the ones I am using, if only to prevent any of you from having to obsess over this for hours and hours. I'll offer a little bit of explanation as to why I'm setting it the way I am. I got some guidance and expertise from a known site, but as of right now they do not have professionally calibrated settings. What I did is by eye only.Settings--------Picture Mode: MovieBacklight: 15Contrast: 100Brightness: 46Sharpness: 10Color: 50Tint: 50/50Dynamic Contrast: OffBlack Tone: OffFlesh Tone: 0RGB Off: AutoColor Space: AutoWhite Balance: 25 for all10p White Balance (R, G, B): ON - Interval 1: -8, -7, -7 - Interval 2: -10, -3, 2 - Interval 3: -9, -2, 6 - Interval 4: -9, -1, 8 - Interval 5: -10, 1, 10 - Interval 6: -6, 3, 10 - Interval 7: -9, 5, 10 - Interval 8: -1, 5, 8 - Interval 9: -5, 1, 6 - Interval 10: 0, 2, 0Gamma: 0Color Tone: Warm2Digital Noise Filter: OffMPEG Noise Filter: OffHDMI Black Level: LOWFilm Mode: Auto2Auto Motion Plus: ClearLED Motion Plus: OnComments on the Settings------------------------Movie mode is the only mode I found that doesn't use "CE Dimming", which is a huge annoyance to me. (I'd rather see edge-lighting, easily. Not sure why I can't control that, Samsung.) Backlight, brightness, and color are kind of like salt and pepper: Use to personal taste in your environment.A note about almost all the other settings: I like an eye-popping, colorful picture as much as the next guy, but I don't like it at the expense of information loss. From my own experimentation (in Standard and Native modes), all the Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone settings did was flatten out the low end of the blacks. Dark scenes look like "paint by number" with all kinds of banding and digital multiplication/division. Lame, worthless settings if that is the effect, and a problem in general with "digital" stuff.Standard white balance isn't fine-grained enough to make the adjustments to any of the picture modes that are necessary, in my opinion. I messed with it for a long time, so I know. :) The only way to get actual, fine-grained color control is to use the 10p White Balance settings. Now, I only know this from messing around with it, but what this does is allow you to control the individual colors R, G, and B as 10 different intensities, from black to white. So, Interval 1 is the darkest reds, greens, and blues (close to black), and Interval 10 is the brightest R, G, and B, close to white. If you use "Expert Pattern 1" you can see how this works. Short summary?: Red is WAY over-represented and blue is WAY under-represented when everything is set at 0. Everything looked neon until I calibrated this, particularly the reds, and greens to some extent. (Maybe they can create a "1980's" picture mode!)The noise filters aren't needed when you have everything calibrated correctly. They are kind of an excuse for having the eye-popping over-saturated settings that Standard and Dynamic mode come with. I'm not too sure on the Film Mode and LED Motion Plus. They didn't give me any noticible changes. The Auto Motion plus is nice, but I found that it starts getting choppy when you have other effects going on, including a lowered sharpness (I imagine it must be doing some extra calculations for that.) So, I only set it to Clear because it doesn't seem to get choppy with that set, but still provides some stability and smoothness in fast scenes.Overall-------I give the picture (once it is set correctly) a 5/5. The fact that I can't adjust certain "features", combined with the level of screwing around it requires to make the picture look good makes me lower that. Seriously Samsung... why can't there be a default mode in here that has professionally calibrated settings? You must know that the reds are way too saturated, right? You can still set it to "Standard Mode" by default to create eye-popping pictures that make people buy the TV. But with all your expertise, why not just have a mode that has all this stuff pre-calibrated and save us the time?EDIT (2012-05-28): After further tinkering, I think I have refined settings to make the picture pop a little more without ruining the picture. Use above settings, but adjust to these:Dynamic Contrast: LOWBlack Tone: DarkerHDMI Black Level: LOWColor Space: Native***********************EDIT (2012-11-06): Now there are finally professionally calibrated settings available (have been for a few months). You can do a search for "un60es6500 calibration" and it's one of the top results. But, there are problems with those settings. The major one is the regular "White Balance" blue offset setting. They say to use 28. The problem with this is that increasing the offset makes the black baseline move up. So, 100% black now appears brighter. I've adjusted their settings and come up with a slight modification that I think looks fantastic. (Also, my experience with the latest firmware 001023 from Nov 1 was NOT GOOD. It wouldn't allow any picture mode except Dynamic. I did a factory reset, and things are better now.)Picture Mode MovieBacklight 17Contrast 100Brightness 45Sharpness 10Color 60Tint G50/R50ADVANCE SETTINGSDynamic Contrast LowBlack Tone OffFlesh Tone 0RGB Only Mode OffColor Space Native10pt White Balance OnGamma -1Expert Pattern OffxvYCC OffPICTURE OPTIONSColor Tone Warm2Digital Noise Filter OffMPEG Noise Filter OffHDMI Black Level LowFilm Mode Film2Auto Motion Plus ClearLED Motion Plus Off10PT WHITE BALANCEONInterval Red Green Blue1 0 -1 -12 -1 -1 -13 0 0 04 -1 0 +15 -1 -1 +16 -1 -1 -17 -1 -1 -18 0 0 09 +1 0 010 +2 0 0WHITE BALANCESetting ValueR-Offset 25G-Offset 25B-Offset 25R-Gain 18G-Gain 23B-Gain 25***********************EDIT (2012-12-02): I've recently updated to the latest firmware version 001024 and I think it is an improvement. With that update, I've adjusted my settings to the above, but with Gamma -2 and Black Tone: Dark and Color Tone: Warm 1. Looks great to me!***********************EDIT (2013-01-02): I've recently updated to firmware version 001025. I might be me imagining it, but I think the video quality degraded slightly, and the issue with SmartHub (where the SmartHub will just pop up randomly, for a second or two, for no reason) is still there. Samsung needs to get their sheet together, because this is just silly, for a $2000 product. But hey, once you've got their money, who cares!***********************EDIT (2013-02-18): The SmartHub problem is fixed now. It apparently just needed to be updated to the latest version, and wasn't an issue with the firmware, as I'm still on 001025 and haven't had that issue in over a month.

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